China has an unparalleled ability to engage the senses in ways that few other countries can replicate. Among its wide-ranging culinary delights lies a polarizing snack that has earned its place as both a delicacy and a challenge to newcomers: chou doufu, or stinky tofu.
This notorious street food, available in bustling markets across the country, is infamous for its overwhelming odor. Its scent—a mix reminiscent of decayed meat, public restrooms in narrow alleyways, and canine breath—is unmistakable from a considerable distance. If the smell doesn’t give it away, the reactions of passersby, often grimacing while covering their noses, certainly will. Yet, despite the pungent aroma, eager customers line up for a serving of this unusual treat.
Why call it “stinky”?
Many wonder about the unapologetically unappealing name. Couldn’t a more appealing term like “aromatic” or “rich” have been chosen instead? The origin of the term “stinky” has roots in an intriguing tale dating back to the Qing Dynasty.
Wang Zhihe, a young scholar, failed the imperial examination and, too embarrassed to return home empty-handed, resolved to remain in the city and try again. Coming from a humble tofu-making family, Wang decided to make a living by opening a tofu shop. One particularly sweltering summer, he noticed that his tofu was spoiling quickly in the heat. In an effort to salvage his goods, Wang placed the tofu in a jar of salted brine to preserve it. Days later, when he opened the jar, the smell was overwhelmingly foul. However, curiosity got the better of him, and he tasted the preserved tofu. To his surprise, it was delicious. Wang began selling this odorous creation, labeling it “stinky tofu,” a name that has stuck ever since.
The art of stinky tofu preparation
Stinky tofu’s preparation methods vary widely depending on the region, resulting in diverse flavors and intensities. The basic process involves soaking tofu in a fermented brine made from ingredients like milk, vegetables, and meat. Additional elements, such as Chinese herbs, dried fish, or shrimp, are commonly included to enrich the fermentation process.
The brine itself undergoes fermentation over several days or even months, becoming a pungent, rotting mixture before the tofu is introduced. The tofu absorbs the brine, creating its signature aroma and taste. Many producers reuse a successful batch of brine to maintain consistency in flavor, while larger factories have developed proprietary recipes and techniques to streamline production and meet demand.
Despite its popularity, stinky tofu’s production has occasionally faced controversy. Rumors have surfaced of unethical methods, including the use of human waste or chemicals to accelerate fermentation. Although authorities have made efforts to regulate the industry, maintaining control over traditional fermentation processes remains a challenge.
The stinky tofu experience
Once the fermentation is complete, the tofu is cooked and served in various ways across China. The most common preparation involves frying the tofu until crispy, often accompanied by a selection of dipping sauces. In Hunan and Sichuan provinces, chili sauces bring out the robust, spicy notes of the blackened tofu, while in Shanghai and Zhejiang, sweeter sauces are used to complement the golden-brown variety. Other regions prefer steaming or stewing stinky tofu, while some enjoy it cold or as part of a hotpot meal.
How does it taste?
Descriptions of stinky tofu’s taste are as varied as its preparation methods. Some claim it has earthy, smoky, or musty undertones, while others liken it to certain cheeses like sharp cheddar or blue cheese. However, it is important to note that, much like cheese, stinky tofu is an acquired taste.
Despite the polarizing opinions, chou doufu holds a special place in Chinese cuisine and culture. Its distinct smell may deter some, but for those willing to brave the stench, it offers a unique sensory and culinary adventure unlike any other.